“who journeyed to Denver, who died in Denver, who came back to Denver & waited in vain, who watched over Denver & brooded & loned in Denver and finally went away to find out the Time, & now Denver is lonesome for her heroes…” -from Allen Ginsberg’s “Howl” (1955)
I had never read any of the Beats until I had to read Allen Ginsberg for my History of American Poetry class (I’m just too much of a classicist), so until recently I was completely unaware of the history Denver had with the interesting school of writers. It turns out that old pals Jack Kerouac, Neal Cassady, and Allen Ginsberg adored the mile-high city.
You could make a whole day of visiting some of the writers’ favorite spots. In fact, Denver.org features an itinerary for a Denver beat poetry tour entitled Denver’s Beat Legacy. If you’re going to visit anywhere, though, definitely visit My Brother’s Bar: Kerouac, Cassady, and Ginsberg’s favorite place to eat and drink together. On the bar wall you’ll even find the original letter written by Cassady, asking the recipient to pay his tab while he was he was in jail for stealing cars. I’ll be 21 next month, so I’ll let you know how it is when I visit!
Looking through the itinerary, you’ll probably find that you’ve unknowingly stood in the same place as one of the Beats. Denver-born Cassady used to frequent the dives that once lined Larimer Square. If you’ve ever ventured into REI, you’ve entered what Cassady knew as the 1901 Denver Tramway building. Or, if you’ve ever seen a show at Cervantes Masterpiece Ballroom, then you’ve heard live music in the same spot that Kerouac and Cassady listened to live jazz. To them, Five Points was “the Harlem of the West.”
The Allstate Blog provides even more spots to visit like the Colburn Hotel, where Cassady met his second wife (maybe it’s good luck on a first date!) and Charlie Brown’s Bar and Grill, another spot that Kerouac, Cassady, and Ginsberg loved.
And for you Kerouac fans, fear not. In 2011, graffiti artists tagged sites in Denver that Kerouac visited and chronicled them on their blog Jack Was Here. Mind you, this was years ago, so I can’t say for sure that any of the graffiti is intact to this day, but the blog provides a nice scavenger hunt. Tell me if you find Jack’s likeness spray-painted anywhere!
These are the kinds of things I love learning. I love visiting places where you can sense the significance of the setting, where you can feel the history. But it’s always funny when you’ve been somewhere many times and then you find out how special that place is. I think the Beats would definitely still love Denver today (especially for the legalized marijuana).